Roja Dove’s new Vetiver fragrance smells like a winner

I’m very fussy about Vetiver fragrances. I’ve tried so many and been disappointed so often (Creed’s Original Vetiver being the one I wear personally), so when I got to sample this new creation from Roja Dove I was bracing myself for yet another let down. I needn’t have worried.

This Vetiver –  a spicy Chypre fragrance lifted by green and citrus notes – has that familiar earthy, smoky vetiver aroma but the whole thing is made more complex by the addition of celery, nutmeg, caraway and oakmoss and – surprise, surprise – is imbued with that base, elemental and animalistic sexiness (what I call the ‘pornographic note’) that runs through so many of Roja’s fragrances.

All in all it’s rich and sexy and has real staying power. If you’ll forgive the awful pun, I think I smell a winner.

Available from Harrods from April, priced £195 for 50ml eau de parfum.

Jean Paul Gaultier’s new fragrance Kokorico reviewed

It doesn’t launch in the UK until January (an odd choice I know but perfectly timed for the Valentine market I guess) but already Jean Paul Gaultier’s lightest fragrance for men Kokorico is already creating a buzz in the fragrance world. The question on everyone’s lips, of course, is is whether it’s good as Le Male – a fragrance that, thanks to its iconic bottle, beautifully-shot ads and distinctive juice, has become a bona fide modern male classic.

The short answer is no. But then how could it? The bar has been set pretty high. Kokorico (inspired by a cocky rooster’s cry, but that’s Gaultier for you) is quite different from what I expected. A blend of fig leaf, patchouli, cedar, cocoa and vetivier, I was anticipating a distinctly gourmand fragrance but no, the fig leaf cuts right through the cocoa note giving this a surprisingly fresh, green, summery  smell. It will certainly work much better as a daytime fragrance than Le Male does and isn’t nearly as sweet or powerful.

As you might expect the bottle’s a quirky, shaped  like a man’s face in side profile and housed in a flat red tin (see the vid below for a behind-the-scenes glimpse into the making of the flacon). Gaultier fans are certainly going to love it but will it have the longevity of Le Male or will Kokorico just be a flight of fancy? Only time will tell.