London calling…

Tom-Ford-London-GQ_25Jul13_pr_b_1There’s a real flurry of activity in the Tom Ford Beauty camp this autumn, with so many great things launching in such a short space of time that devotees like myself don’t really know what to mention (or wear) first. As well as the immaculately turned-out Texan’s first dedicated male grooming range and Private Blend Oud Collection (I nearly wet myself when I saw that for the first time) there’s London, a brand new fragrance specifically created to celebrate the launch of the new Tom Ford store in Knightsbridge.

The press release for London is littered with words like “carnality”, aphrodisiac”, “animal” and “feral” and for once with a press release they’re worlds that perfectly capture the spirit of the fragrance they’re describing. Though it has a lovely floral heart, with geranium and jasmine, and a base rich with oud, cedarwood and birch tar oil (one of my favourite notes), it’s the musk that grabs you. It’s this hyper-sexual note – one I tend to associate with Roja Dove’s men’s fragrances – that turns London into one of the most sensual fragrances in the entire Private Blend collection.

I remember talking to a perfumer from across the pond who’d had lovers all over the world and she told me the men from London, despite their coyness and reserve, were by far the kinkiest she’d encountered. This unisex fragrance may well just reinforce that observation.

Tom Ford Private Blend London will be available from the Tom Ford Boutique from September priced £140 for 50ml eau de parfum.

Sex, blogging and why bad reviews aren’t the end of the world

round-rating-buttonsThe other week, over a tongue-slackening bottle of wine, I had a rather enlightening conversation with a PR regarding the nature of blogging. And in the process I had my wrists slapped a couple of times for, would you believe it, speaking my mind? Why, they wanted to know, would I bother to criticise a product if I didn’t I didn’t like it when I could simply not mention it at all?

That, I told them politely, is a little like turning a blind eye to an injustice and hoping someone else will speak out because you’re too afraid. I know, I know, the two aren’t entirely comparable but I had been drinking remember. The sad fact is, though, bloggers do have every reason to be afraid. I have, in the course of saying what I think, been blacklisted (after one critical post a company I’d been in regular contact with for over five years promptly removed me from their mailing list) and I’ve incurred the wrath of more than one overly-sensitive PR for a less-than-flattering product review. Worse still, on occasion I’ve simply had the silent treatment when I send emails to PRs, which is essentially the beauty industry equivalent of waterboarding.

As I explained to the PR I was discussing the subject with, though, to me a degree of objectivity is absolutely crucial for credibility. In print journalism (and I’m talking about beauty journalism specifically here) there is a convention that everything is wonderful. This lipstick’s gorgeous, that aftershave balm’s fantastic etc, etc. But then, when you have advertisers breathing down your neck how are you going to say something doesn’t work, smells rank or stripped a couple of layers of skin off your face?

The thing is, as readers become increasingly more sophisticated in how they consume information – and increasingly sceptical in the process – the ‘love all, hate nothing’ mentality so prevalent in the beauty industry simply won’t wash. Indeed, I strongly suspect it’s why so many people prefer to access product information via blogs rather than print media these days.

What I don’t understand is why some brands and some of their PRs freak out so much when they read a less than glowing review, why they can’t roll with the punches and why they can’t see the bigger picture. When a brand has a reality outage over a bad review I’ve written I often point them in the direction of a review of another of their products where I’ve been quite beside myself with adoration.

Don’t get me wrong, some do ‘get it’ (I often receive emails saying “we know you weren’t keen on X but are sure you’ll like Y” which is great – and perfectly reasonable – approach). These people understand that you’re bound to take a hit sometimes and that in actual fact, being critical of some things makes praise of others all the more powerful when it comes.

I’m sure lots of bloggers will disagree with me about being openly critical and there will be others, perhaps those just starting out, who are too nervous to upset big brands, especially since so many are now clamouring to “work with” us.  I  totally understand that, and that the beauty about blogging is that everyone can do their own thing. There are lots of bloggers out there whose aim is simply to alert their readers to the availability of a product and who leave any opinion at the coatcheck. And that’s totally fine. I read them and enjoy them, and as with news channels, there are times when not having an opinion is a good idea.

Personally, though, I like to hear what a blogger thinks about a product. One of the things I love about Amazon is the glorious array of conflicting reviews. Look up your favourite album and there’ll be people saying it’s the best thing ever recorded while others will say they hurled it out of their car window in utter disgust. What this array of opinions gives you is perspective. And you need that just as much if you’re thinking of buying a moisturiser or massively-hyped new fragrance as when you’re buying a new TV, car or home insurance.

So to all the brands and PRs out there who still flip out at anything less than a glowing product review I say this: reviews are like sex. Sometimes great, sometimes average, sometimes downright disappointing. But you should never write off a lover just because of one bad experience.

REN get down and dirty to promote clean skin

REN have long been one of my favourite skincare companies, thanks to their carefully-sourced ingredients and understated packaging.  Ren itself means ‘clean’ in Swedish and to remind people of the company’s natural approach to skincare they’ve just produced their first short film.

Shot in a fjord in Sweden (makes you jealous just looking at it) and featuring two young lovers getting down and dirty (makes you even more jealous) there are two versions –  the one below and a naughty 18+ version, with lots of Swedish-style nudity, which I can’t show here but which you might want to look up on YouTube!