April 2016 will see the launch of a brand new Burberry fragrance, Mr Burberry, inspired, apparently, by the iconic Burberry heritage trench coat. Described as a woody/herbal fragrance it features notes of grapefruit, tarragon, cardamom, cedar, nutmeg, birch leaf, vetiver, sandalwood and guaiac wood and the campaign will feature Brit actor Josh Whitehouse, directed by Turner Prize winning director Steve McQueen. To add to the list of big guns involved (Burberry never do anything by halves) the fragrance itself has been created by acclaimed nose Francis Kurkdjian. I must say, I love the simplicity of the bottle and the Mr Porter-esque name (check out the italicised font) and can’t wait to smell the fragrance itself.
Given the size of this launch (it has A-lister Johnny Depp attached to the ad campaign) and the amount of secrecy that surrounded it (it was subject to an exceptionally strict embargo) I was expecting great things from Sauvage – Dior’s latest fragrance and their biggest launch in a decade. I mean, Dior’s portfolio contains fragrances – like Eau Sauvage, Fahrenheit and Dior Homme – which pretty much set the standard when it comes to ‘classics’. And I’m sure the hope was that Sauvage would join this illustrious list. But (you sensed there was a ‘but’ coming right?) in truth, it’s not a patch on its predecessors.
Given Dior’s past boldness (Fahrenheit shouldn’t have worked but is amazing and Eau Sauvage was genuinely groundbreaking when it launched in 1966) I very much hoped they’d pull something original, maybe even something left-field, out of the bag for this major launch but alas, Sauvage is just another generic modern men’s fragrance – all citrus, lavender, wood and amber and blah-blah-blah. I’m not saying it’s bad – it’s not – just that it’s safer, more pedestrian and certainly more ‘familiar’ than I would have imagined. Like so many contemporary fragrances it tries terribly hard not to offend or polarise which is a great way to shift units (it worked for Chanel Bleu after all) but not necessarily a great way to create a classic in the same league as, say, Eau Sauvage.
For those of you wondering whether it’s a variant of that particular fragrance, it’s not; it merely trades on the name, presumably hoping for a bit of that classic fragrance’s gold dust to rub off on it. Look, the last thing I wanted to do was savage Sauvage but, hey, it’s just my opinion and there’s still the possibility that Dior’s next big launch will be an absolute stonker.
Dior Sauvage is available nationwide from 2nd September, priced £50 for 60ml eau de toilette.