Looking for a new fragrance? Then bring on the Artillery!

As much as I love vetiver fragrances I’m very funny about them too. I find the dry down of a lot of them (including Guerlian’s Vetiver) a bit sickly. In fact, the only one I truly love is Creed’s Original Vetiver but that uses the leaves rather than the root of the plant so it comes across as fresher and greener than most vetivers.

And so it was with some trepidation that I removed the lid of Angela Flanders Vetivert from her Artillery range for men and gave it a spray. Slightly leathery but not heady or overly-earthy it’s tempered by lavender and bergamot which give is a light, fresh, barbershop soapiness. Sure, it doesn’t have the punchiness or longevity of the Creed fragrance but I’ve been wearing it all week and have had nothing but compliments, so if you’re looking for a new fragrance for winter give it a go.

Angela Flanders Artillery No 4 Vetivert costs £50 for 50ml eau de toieltte. For more info go to www.angelaflanders-perfumer.com

New fragrance round-up: what’s hot, what’s not.

At this time of year fragrance launches come upon you faster than colds so rather than give a detailed critique of every one I thought I’d pick a handful of the most recent and challenge myself to be succinct for once. So here goes…

Prada Luna Rossa.

Housed in a superbly modern flacon Prada’s latest offering is all about freshness. But not in a predictable, sparkling citrus top note kinda way. Instead, it’s all about spearmint, clary sage and lavender which lends it a slightly soapy floral feel with a sharp, aromatic freshness. Easy to wear and good for evening but even better for daytime. Looks the biz, too, doesn’t it?

 

 

 

 

Roja Parfums Fetish Pour Homme.

Pornographer de parfum Roja Dove’s latest fragrance for men is typically filthy in feel – leathery, musky, animalistic and slightly spicy but has been given a more romantic  and tender side with notes of violet and jasmine. Sexy, complex and capricious it can kiss you one minute and whip you the next. Which is just how I like my fragrances.

 

 

 

 

Aramis Gentleman.

The problem with Aramis is that in creating such an iconic fragrance (in what is now known as Aramis Classic) it sort of has nowhere better to go. This latest fragrance takes its cues from the original fragrance but adds black pepper, along with oregano and ginger to take it in a different, lighter, direction. Like remixes of great records it’s certainly worth checking out but the original is still the better version.

 

Thierry Mugler A*Men Pure Leather.

I’m no fan of Thierry Mugler’s men’s fragrances (though Pure Shot did much to change my views). This  souped-up version, with leather and patchouli, is particularly pernicious. I’ve sniffed hard to find the leather (a smell I love in fragrance) but all I can detect is a sickly sweet caramel and something akin to the smell of hairspray. Mugler fans may well love it but it would make me run a mile.

 

Le Noir by Lyn Harris.

One of three men’s fragrances created exclusively for M&S this, like the other two fragrances that form the range, has a certain old-fashioned charm that I rather like. A blend of bergamot, lavender, patchouli and amber it still smells like something you dad might wear but it has a leatheriness I rather like. For £25, certainly worth a go.