DSquared Potion Blue Cadet: the spell is broken

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Keen followers of this blog will know how much I loved the original DSquared Potion fagrance. So much so in fact that I awarded it the title of Best New Fragrance in my annual Grooming Guru Awards in 2011. Unfortunately, Dsquared’s latest launch, Potion Blue Cadet, completely breaks the spell of the the original.

An aromatic woody fragrance, with cutting notes of bergamot, mandarin and grapefruit, along with pedestrian tonka bean (yawn), it’s fantastically commercial but, perhaps because of this, ends up smelling like Issey Miyake’s Pour Homme Sport (with which it shares several notes) or some charmless concoction cooked up in the P&G laboratories. In fairness, the dry down is much better so it does have some redeeming qualities but it’s not a patch on the original Potion. So DSquared, please bring back a little of the old magic with the next one okay?

Notes:

Top: begamot, mandarin, pink grapefruit

Middle: Siberian pine, Blue Hemlock, Fir Balsam, White Cedar

Base: Musk, Tonka bean, Cistus resin

Dsquared Potion Blue Cadet launches in May.

Disclosure Notice: I received a free sample of this product for review purposes

Shay & Blue’s blood is worth bottling. Well, their Blood Oranges fragrance is anyway…

BloodOrange_FinalshayHe’s the ex Senior Vice President of Chanel and former Global General Manager of Jo Malone Ltd and she’s a talented, up-and-coming perfumer so what could go wrong? Well, nothing as it happens, because Dom De Vetta and Julie Massé know exactly what they’re doing with boutique fragrance brand Shay & Blue. 

The styling (with it meticulous attention to detail, is very Jo Malone (beautiful boxes, beautifully ribboned, only this time in blue) but the fragrances are much better, more rounded and muti-faceted. Blood Oranges, for example, is utterly delicious: it oozes dark, citrus juiciness to begin with but develops into a gorgeously leathery fragrance with musky overtones and a sensual woody, ambery base that’s both mysterious and a wee bit naughty. It’s about as far removed from what most people think of as citrus pefumery as you can get, is delightfully styled from start to finish and is made in England too.  I absolutely love it and I think you will too.

7136pWHLVOLShay & Blue’s Blood Oranges costs £55 for 100ml natural spray. For more information see shayandblue.com. Shay & Blue’s new London Boutique can be found at 80 York Street, Old Marylebone, London.